HistoryHistory
Pronounced "ao yai" in the south, and "ao zai" in the north, the costume has had a short history relative to the country and people of Vietnam.
Early versions of the garment date back to the early 1700's, and were influenced by imperial Chinese garb of the Qing dynasty, known as Qipao. Unlike its cousin the qipao, which is a tight fitted dress with slits on both sides (in its modern reincarnation), the áo dài is a looser tunic, which even in its tight-fitting form is still left wide and flowing at the bottom. Furthermore, the slits of the áo dài extend above the waistline, revealing a slight glimpse of the sides of the midriff.
The costume has faced countless modifications throughout the centuries but its basic form consists of a long flowing gown with a slit on both sides, often with a high fitted collar, worn over long silk pants.
Some historians have suggested that the áo dài was an evolution of different influences from many directions, including the ancient four-flapped tunic áo tứ thân, one of the other more well known (and much older than áo dài) traditional Kinh costumes.
Modernization
In 1930, the Vietnamese fashion designer Cát Tường, known to the French as Monsieur Le Mur, modified it. He lengthened the áo dài so that the top reached the floor, and made it fit the curves of the body closer. With the import of an abundance of foreign fabrics in 20th century Vietnam, including broader fabric, the modernized áo dài required less material to be made and as a result the flaps also became generally slimmer.
In Saigon during the 1950s, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors modified the áo dài to a form closest to what is seen today. He produced the gowns with raglan sleeves, creating a diagonal seam that runs from the collar to the underarm.
Áo dài only continued to become more form-fitting with time.
In the 1960s the collarless áo dài style was popularized by the infamous Madame Nhu (former first lady of South Vietnam).
Despite the two major modifications to the áo dài in the 20th century, it has also seen slight changes throughout each decade as fashion changes constantly. Everything from floral to checkered patterns, the use of transparent fabrics, the tunic length being largely reduced or lengthened, has all been seen throughout different eras of Vietnamese history.
The áo dài has always been more prevalent in the south than in the north, and has faced a surge in popularity in recent years, even with overseas Vietnamese.
In recent decades it has inspired worldwide renowned fashion designers such Chanel and Ralph Lauren, among other big names, to create entire collections of áo dài.
The most popular style of the áo dài as we see it today is tight-fitting around the wearer's upper torso, emphasizing her bust and curves. For this reason, the áo dài, while it covers the whole body, is said to be provocative, especially when it is made of thin or see-through fabric.
The áo dài and its place in modern-day Vietnam
Although it disappeared somewhat for a short period due to the extravagance and elegance of the costume being seen as an excess, it has surprisingly come back with a vengeance both for Vietnamese in Vietnam and overseas.
In addition to being worn at traditional and festive occasions, plain white áo dài is the uniform for female students in Vietnam in some middle schools, most high schools and some universities. Many companies also require their female staff to be attired in the áo dài, whether flight attendants, receptionists or women working in restaurants and hotels.
In 2007, the Vietnamese film The White Silk Dress was released to high acclaim worldwide, centering in particular on a white silk áo dài that is the sole legacy a mother in a poverty-stricken family has to give to her daughters. The film emphasizes the huge cultural significance the áo dài plays in Vietnamese culture and how it symbolizes the spirit of Vietnamese women.
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